Pashmina Cashmere Directory

Cashmere

Cashmere, Cashmere everywhere.... can you believe it's just goat hair?

It may have started out as the Fabric of Kings, but the exquisitely soft fiber known as cashmere is so democratized now it even appears in such humble offerings as socks and head kerchiefs.

Cashmere began to lose its stuffy, old money image a few seasons back when designers decided the elite knitwear melded perfectly with the dress luxuriously for yourself and cocooning trends.

According to Suzy Menkes in the International Herald Tribune: "Cashmere has emerged as the quintessential fiber of the late 1990s, embodying all the relevant fashion values of now. It resonates luxury, sensuality, elitism, heritage and a heady dose of mystique."

Cashmere comes from the same goat as pashmina, but the wool is not exclusively plucked from the chest and throat region. This robust, highly insulating yarn is twilled double-ply and knit into sweaters, scarves, caps and gloves that are joyously colorful, heartwarmingly cozy, and succulently soft.

Cashmere Facts :

• It takes a cashmere goat four years to grow enough hair for one sweater.
• Cashmere absorbs water more quickly than wool.
• The diameter of the yarn must be under 19 microns to be classified as cashmere (In contrast, human hair has a diameter of 75 microns)
• Experts claim cashmere is eight times warmer than sheep's wool.

Cashmere History :
The name cashmere comes from the Kashmir province of India, where the cashmere products of this area first attracted the attention of Europeans in the early 1800s.

Originally from the down undercoat of the Asiatic goat (Capra hircus laniger) cashmere fibers now also come from 68 breeds of goats in 12 countries, which are classified as cashmere because of a fiber diameter of under 19 microns.

According to Cashmere.org, significant supplier countries of cashmere include China, Mongolia and Tibet. During molting season in the spring, the goats have their fine underdown hairs combed and separated from the coarse outer hairs in China and Mongolia (the animals are sheared in Iran, Afghanistan, New Zealand and Australia)

At 12-14 microns thick, pashmina is classified as the finest cashmere. Pashmina comes from the same type of goat, except this one only lives in Kashmir and Tibet at heights of 12,000 to 14,000 feet, according to Royal Cashmere. The theory goes that the harshest weather makes for the best inner coat (pashm means "inside").

Glossary :
Loft - Tiny air spaces trapped between the individual fibers.
Hand or handle - The feel of the finished product.
Ply - Another word for strand. The number of strands twisted together to form the yarn tells you the number of plys.
Pashmina - Finest grade of cashmere that is a short, thin inner layer hair from Himalayan goats of 12-14 microns thick.

Fashion :
Even Martha Stewart couldn't resist hawking last year's ubiquitous fashion accessory -- the pashmina shawl or wrap. The fash pack has moved on to newer styles, but this cover-up still works great for evening in warmer climates in place of a jacket or over coats in cold climates for added color and warmth.

Often mixed with silk for added luster, the pashmina shawl takes color beautifully and is best in scrumptious soft colors like banana, lilac, ice blue, rose and seafoam. Sizes (like prices) vary widely, so check out dimensions for each vendor.

Shopping :
Cashmere and pashmina are available in varying qualities, styles and price points. Although a two-ply knit is better than a one-ply, the true quality of an item can best be distinguished by its hand.

Here are some online resources for cashmere and pashmina:
Brora
Banana Republic
Cashmere Club
Cashmere Company
Royal Cashmere
Land's End

Cashmere Care :
Handwash using a natural, mild soap (completely dissolved) Rinse until water runs clear. Lay flat to dry.
When dry, press with a damp cloth and cool iron.
Wash only after 6-7 wearings.
Store in a cedar chest and/or plastic bags to avoid moths.
Gently pull or cut off pilling.

Cashmere Quiz :
1. Shahtoosh is the finest cashmere fiber.
Answer : Shahtoosh is not the finest cashmere fiber (pashmina is) but instead it comes from an endangered antelope and has been banned since 1980. The shahtoosh fiber is half as fine as cashmere.

2. Goats have to be killed to make cashmere garments.
Answer : Goats do not have to be killed for cashmere production. They are combed or sheared for their hair.

3. One-ply is the finest weave.
Answer : One-ply is not the finest weave. Opinions on this vary, but generally two-ply is the finest weave. Three and four-ply are not any finer, they are just heavier garments.

4. There are no natural fibers finer than cashmere.
Answer : There are natural fibers finer than cashmere. Vicuna is 13.0 microns. Qiviut is 12.5 microns.